Sunday, February 05, 2006

Critics turn heat on chemical chef

The Sunday Times

By Graham Keeley, in Barcelona

MEN and women in white coats busy themselves with diagrams, lists and an array of machines; the odd cucumber or slice of ham are the only signs that you are in a kitchen.
This is the Barcelona “laboratory” of Ferran Adria, 43, a pioneering chef in the mould of Heston Blumenthal in Britain. He is hailed by gourmets across the world for such innovative dishes as strawberry walnut mayonnaise, foie gras ice cream and cocoa butter with crispy ears of rabbit.
Yet after years of adulation the godfather of Spain’s nueva cocina (nouvelle cuisine) found himself ridiculed last week over his use of unusual culinary accessories such as nitrous oxide to make fine mousses.

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