The Times, Leading article
Bring back our mutton! Then again, it never went away, sir
Sages know their onions — and also their muttons. The Prince of Wales launched his Mutton Renaissance Club last night with a feast for sage chefs, and other sheep’s heads who are all jaw. Its cuisine statement is to revive an old English dish, and to improve the living for native sheep-farmers. The present difficulty is that punters, and therefore supermarkets, prefer lamb to the real thing. Lamb sounds fresher and more innocent. Health fanatics panic about catching BSE from the older sheep. Mutton takes longer to hang. And it is perceived as a tough dish for pretentious middle-class Aga’n’larder cooks.
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