The Independent on Sunday
By Janet Street-Porter, Editor-at-large
"One hundred and fifty years ago, mutton - meat from sheep more than two years old - was, like oysters, the mainstay of a working-class diet. But tastes change and over the past 20 years the time we spend preparing food has shrunk, just as the time we spend working has increased. Mutton needs slow cooking and good root vegetables. It's not something you can assemble in 20 minutes and garnish with a packet of frozen peas."