From Jane Macartney in Beijing
MY CHOPSTICKS hovered over the cold starter. It looked appetising if highly spiced. Sliced dark meat, perhaps a touch fatty, marinated in ginger, garlic and Sichuan pepper.
The dish was dog — signature cuisine of the Sour Fish Soup Household restaurant in one of Beijing’s fashionable developments. With tomorrow marking the start of the Year of the Dog, the 11th animal in the Chinese twelve-year Chinese zodiac cycle, it seemed a perfect moment to try to understand the paradox of the Chinese relationship with dogs.